If I remember rightly, David's messenger thought he was going to get a reward for telling him. As you aren't looking for that except maybe a pat on the back or two, we will let you live....
I am having a hard time understanding several things in this article. How does a shorter chain effect shank angle? Five feet of chain is enough to make my Danforth lie down horizontally. Getting it to dig in seems to be more on the technique of setting it than chain weight. Also, the comment on not using larger diameter rode because of less give makes no sense. All lines stretch with load (OK almost all). What happens is a lighter line SHOWS that stretch more than a heavier one does, but there is still give in the line commensurate with load. I agree that a snubber is almost always a good idea. Please help me understand what I am missing with this. Thanks.
Hi Baxter, thanks for asking for clarification. There is some bit of finesse or technique required in setting the anchor in various circumstances. Once the Danforth style anchor has reached the bottom, it helps to slowly release additional line with a slight strain on the anchor. This forces the shank to be angled ( dictated by the engineered crown )and hence the flukes enter the bottom at an angle rather than being pulled parallel to the sea floor. A long heavy section of chain inhibits the shank from reaching the designed degree of angle. You’ll feel this as you pay out the rode. Once the anchor is set, additional line should be slowly released under control until your desired scope is achieved. As far as larger diameter line is concerned, large diameter line stretches less under similar loads. Of course, stretch and strength varies with line type (three strand, double braid, Nylon, Dacron, etc.) We’re not concerned with breaking strength and welcome the line absorbing the strain with stretch instead of our set anchor breaking free. The smaller diameter line functions as a snubber and the chafing gear protects it at the chock. I hope this clarifies things.
Sorry, but this makes no logical sense. The shank and flukes on a Danforth pivot freely, 1000 lbs or 1 pound of weight at the end of the shank will have zero effect on the flukes angle of attack if the shank is lying flat on the sea floor. You’re describing an EXACT needed angle of attack, an impossible ask with sea bed variety, boat speed and movement, and not being able to see the ground tackle or anchor as your paying out the rode or as the flukes hit that “perfect” angle of attack. Same with the stretch of your rode comment. It’s the length of rode (within functional and comparable sizes) that determines stretch, not size. Again, SV Panope has tested all of this exhaustively and as scientifically as can reasonably be done, go to their YouTube channel for real world anchor testing. And good luck hitting that “magic moment” with a Danforth, I’ll stick to my Rocna.
Now I’m confused. What is the point of using a light weight anchor with an abundance of heavy chain? I’ve watched numerous SV Panope videos including his negative fisherman tests. I’ve also read and seen the testimonies of Maynard Bray and Steve Stone from Off Center Harbor touting their confidence and success with that style anchor. All I was suggesting is that if one chooses to use a Danforth style anchor, don’t diminish or restrict its capabilities by adding a ton of chain. I too use a Rocna as my primary and preferred anchor but I believe there is a place for a lightweight fluke on board. Anchoring is a skill, achievable through careful practice. Many people throw them in and hope for the best, relying on the properties of the style and a bit of luck. Regardless, this discussion is a benefit and contributes to our understanding. Thanks.
Who suggested using a lightweight anchor? Or using one with lots of chain? Or using a fisherman anchor ever? I was saying that minimizing chain and using lightweight rode to hit a specific angle of entry for a Danforth may not be the best advice, especially for a primary anchor. I have and use a Danforth as a lunch hook or stern anchor, same chain and rode as my primary, and I’ve never had an issue getting it to set with an abundance of chain.
My experience with a Danforth or Danforth style anchor even in the sand of the lower Columbia river suggests only using it for a lunch hook or stern anchor against the wind and tidal flow in the lower river. I don't trust it's reset enough to sleep.
Does anyone have specific recommendations for anchor type, weight, and rode composition and length specific to the Salish Sea and a 16' Wayfarer dinghy?
My 21'-foot Sea Pearl uses a 5 kg claw anchor, about six feet of 1/4" link chain, and maybe 80 feet of 1/2" dia. double-braided nylon line. For normal anchoring in the Salish Sea I've never had a problem with this. (I have a whole other set of lines/buoy for clothesline anchoring).
If I remember rightly, David's messenger thought he was going to get a reward for telling him. As you aren't looking for that except maybe a pat on the back or two, we will let you live....
I am having a hard time understanding several things in this article. How does a shorter chain effect shank angle? Five feet of chain is enough to make my Danforth lie down horizontally. Getting it to dig in seems to be more on the technique of setting it than chain weight. Also, the comment on not using larger diameter rode because of less give makes no sense. All lines stretch with load (OK almost all). What happens is a lighter line SHOWS that stretch more than a heavier one does, but there is still give in the line commensurate with load. I agree that a snubber is almost always a good idea. Please help me understand what I am missing with this. Thanks.
Hi Baxter, thanks for asking for clarification. There is some bit of finesse or technique required in setting the anchor in various circumstances. Once the Danforth style anchor has reached the bottom, it helps to slowly release additional line with a slight strain on the anchor. This forces the shank to be angled ( dictated by the engineered crown )and hence the flukes enter the bottom at an angle rather than being pulled parallel to the sea floor. A long heavy section of chain inhibits the shank from reaching the designed degree of angle. You’ll feel this as you pay out the rode. Once the anchor is set, additional line should be slowly released under control until your desired scope is achieved. As far as larger diameter line is concerned, large diameter line stretches less under similar loads. Of course, stretch and strength varies with line type (three strand, double braid, Nylon, Dacron, etc.) We’re not concerned with breaking strength and welcome the line absorbing the strain with stretch instead of our set anchor breaking free. The smaller diameter line functions as a snubber and the chafing gear protects it at the chock. I hope this clarifies things.
Sorry, but this makes no logical sense. The shank and flukes on a Danforth pivot freely, 1000 lbs or 1 pound of weight at the end of the shank will have zero effect on the flukes angle of attack if the shank is lying flat on the sea floor. You’re describing an EXACT needed angle of attack, an impossible ask with sea bed variety, boat speed and movement, and not being able to see the ground tackle or anchor as your paying out the rode or as the flukes hit that “perfect” angle of attack. Same with the stretch of your rode comment. It’s the length of rode (within functional and comparable sizes) that determines stretch, not size. Again, SV Panope has tested all of this exhaustively and as scientifically as can reasonably be done, go to their YouTube channel for real world anchor testing. And good luck hitting that “magic moment” with a Danforth, I’ll stick to my Rocna.
Now I’m confused. What is the point of using a light weight anchor with an abundance of heavy chain? I’ve watched numerous SV Panope videos including his negative fisherman tests. I’ve also read and seen the testimonies of Maynard Bray and Steve Stone from Off Center Harbor touting their confidence and success with that style anchor. All I was suggesting is that if one chooses to use a Danforth style anchor, don’t diminish or restrict its capabilities by adding a ton of chain. I too use a Rocna as my primary and preferred anchor but I believe there is a place for a lightweight fluke on board. Anchoring is a skill, achievable through careful practice. Many people throw them in and hope for the best, relying on the properties of the style and a bit of luck. Regardless, this discussion is a benefit and contributes to our understanding. Thanks.
Who suggested using a lightweight anchor? Or using one with lots of chain? Or using a fisherman anchor ever? I was saying that minimizing chain and using lightweight rode to hit a specific angle of entry for a Danforth may not be the best advice, especially for a primary anchor. I have and use a Danforth as a lunch hook or stern anchor, same chain and rode as my primary, and I’ve never had an issue getting it to set with an abundance of chain.
My experience with a Danforth or Danforth style anchor even in the sand of the lower Columbia river suggests only using it for a lunch hook or stern anchor against the wind and tidal flow in the lower river. I don't trust it's reset enough to sleep.
Does anyone have specific recommendations for anchor type, weight, and rode composition and length specific to the Salish Sea and a 16' Wayfarer dinghy?
My 21'-foot Sea Pearl uses a 5 kg claw anchor, about six feet of 1/4" link chain, and maybe 80 feet of 1/2" dia. double-braided nylon line. For normal anchoring in the Salish Sea I've never had a problem with this. (I have a whole other set of lines/buoy for clothesline anchoring).
Thanks, George!