Had the same problem with my 18' cat. I followed a different path. A couple of eyebolts on either side of the cockpit to which I could hitch a tackle and a grommet with an eye that went over the tiller. I think it was a simple 2x1 tackle. Worked real well as there was never a need to push on the tiller, only to pull. In light air I could sit on the stem and steer the boat. Back in the day they called those relieving tackles.
The effort required on the tiller is related to the pivot point of the rudder blade. The more aft the blade is to the pivot point the harder it is to control the tiller. There is an ideal forward position of the pivot point where the water pressure on the leading edge of the rudder helps with steering the rudder. On my Potter 19's wooden rudder, I filed away at the rotating joint stop to allow the bottom end of the blade to be forward of the pivot point (about 2 inches) , which made a quantum change for easier steering. I later changed to the slender Ida Rudder for superior sailing experience on the ocean between Catalina Island and Los Angeles, Calif.
Looks great. My 18’ skiff was a much easier conversion because I built it with Coquina style rope steering from the start. A recently added wheel used a 3/4” fiberglass shaft and hub made from rubber blasting hose with big washers.
Nice job of reinventing the wheel. As mentioned, this is a variant of others seen elsewhere.
The 3:1 ratio has another advantage because it allows the helmsperson to steer small with relatively little effort. Novice sailors do not seem to understand that the rudder also provides braking as it goes further over.
If it is necessary to have the helm hard over when trying to hold a course, it is time to trim or ease the sails.
I have also seen the wheel mounted directly on the tiller.
Had the same problem with my 18' cat. I followed a different path. A couple of eyebolts on either side of the cockpit to which I could hitch a tackle and a grommet with an eye that went over the tiller. I think it was a simple 2x1 tackle. Worked real well as there was never a need to push on the tiller, only to pull. In light air I could sit on the stem and steer the boat. Back in the day they called those relieving tackles.
The effort required on the tiller is related to the pivot point of the rudder blade. The more aft the blade is to the pivot point the harder it is to control the tiller. There is an ideal forward position of the pivot point where the water pressure on the leading edge of the rudder helps with steering the rudder. On my Potter 19's wooden rudder, I filed away at the rotating joint stop to allow the bottom end of the blade to be forward of the pivot point (about 2 inches) , which made a quantum change for easier steering. I later changed to the slender Ida Rudder for superior sailing experience on the ocean between Catalina Island and Los Angeles, Calif.
The right boat, the right reasons and well done. Thanks skipper!
Looks great. My 18’ skiff was a much easier conversion because I built it with Coquina style rope steering from the start. A recently added wheel used a 3/4” fiberglass shaft and hub made from rubber blasting hose with big washers.
Nice job of reinventing the wheel. As mentioned, this is a variant of others seen elsewhere.
The 3:1 ratio has another advantage because it allows the helmsperson to steer small with relatively little effort. Novice sailors do not seem to understand that the rudder also provides braking as it goes further over.
If it is necessary to have the helm hard over when trying to hold a course, it is time to trim or ease the sails.
I have also seen the wheel mounted directly on the tiller.
There are as many variants as there are boats.