Your tips on bending in chines and sheer clamps is first-rate, IMO. But when I total up all the prep and and time to propose-build bending equipment, I have to ask why not rip stock into 3/8" to 1/2" strips and epoxy-laminate the "bent" members into place? If you rip with a good carbide-tipped planer blade, you probably wouldn't even have to surface the ripped strips (given the gap-filling properties of a properly chosen epoxy edhesive system). Just sayin'. Cheers!
Cutting multiple kerfs across the grain to ease bending makes sense for decorative applications, but not for structural members, since it weakens the piece by at least 50% (depending on the depth of the Kerr’s). Cheers!
Your tips on bending in chines and sheer clamps is first-rate, IMO. But when I total up all the prep and and time to propose-build bending equipment, I have to ask why not rip stock into 3/8" to 1/2" strips and epoxy-laminate the "bent" members into place? If you rip with a good carbide-tipped planer blade, you probably wouldn't even have to surface the ripped strips (given the gap-filling properties of a properly chosen epoxy edhesive system). Just sayin'. Cheers!
I don't see anyone suggesting kerfing the wood....
Cutting multiple kerfs across the grain to ease bending makes sense for decorative applications, but not for structural members, since it weakens the piece by at least 50% (depending on the depth of the Kerr’s). Cheers!
I made a steam box from 4inch PVC pipe and applied steam from a propane cooker/steamer. 3/4-×3/4 mahogany 15ft long took about 3 hrs.in the box.
Worked well on a 14 ft canoe.