From the fact that you're considering Artemis, I assume you're thinking solo? If that's the case, you could always deck Kombi, which would still be simpler than Artemis (and maybe even simpler than the stock Kombi).
I'm also interested in the Kombi, so these comments are very useful. An advantage to the Kombi is that a kit with all the plywood cut out is available. The kits are available in various levels and with several options. https://www.jowoodworks.com/
my Artemis is built from a kit, but that came from Switzerland (and was held in customs because of white powder coming out of the box, epoxy thickener...) but not sure how close to Switzerland you are...
Of all the plans for a sailing canoe my opinion is the Chesapeake Light Craft (“CLC”) Wanderlust Sailing canoe is the best design to come along in some time. “Among the more unique features of the design is an integrated Hobie Mirage Drive for auxiliary power. This drops into a trunk in the cockpit.” This feature alone would make it the better choice for those days when there is no wind and there is a long waterway to traverse. Key is the Wanderlust was designed with fuller ends for better weight capacity and stability under sail. The best choice if you are a solo voyager would be CLC’s Faering Cruiser. Really a very large canoe like form with better sea keeping abilities. I have plans for the Faering. Accommodations, storage, sliding rowing seat and seaworthy design all combine for superior choice over a canoe. I also have had direct interactions with John Harris and Dillion Majoros. They were excellent to work with and brought a high level of design functionality and aesthetic sense to a project I looked at. You may wish to consider these two options.
You mean the Waterlust canoe I think? It is an entirely different boat compared to Viola and Artemis. Yes the mirage drive is great, and in theory it can cartop, but it is much bigger wider and needs a trailer to transport. Both Viola and Artemis cartop easy.
I absolutely love the Waterlust canoe, but a different beast really. We had one at our Dorestad raid last year
I have the plans to Arctic Skua from Selway Fisher. It's next up to build after I do some repairs to my 60 year old GP14. I prefered the Arctic Skua both because of it's traditional looks, but because of it's offset centreboard (offcentreboard?) that is tucked to the side of the cockpit instead of bisecting it. This leaves a large area for lounging or even sleeping aboard without needing to worry about the fragile nature of leeboards.
I can no longer paddle, due to very arthritic shoulders. That is why I am switching to a rowing/sailing boat. The additional capacity is also important to my beloved and me.
As a longtime canoe sailor, I prefer the beamier boat. At my age, I a not comfortable hanging out over the side, either on a pry or sitting on the rail. I have been able sail comfortably in most conditions. Although a set of amas came with my full-battened Balogh rig, I have never used them, as I consider them the equivalent of training wheels. The less dependent you are on them, the more skill you gain.
A single leeboard has always been satisfactory. I considered a centerboard or daggerboard but for various reasons have ever been happy with them.
I am currently developing a 15' x 42" sailing whitehall, developed from figure 72 in American Small Sailing Craft. The significant different from CLC's boat of the same overall dimensions will be in planking, as theirs is of 6 mm okume and, based on discussions with Don Betts, mine will be 3mm. It has not been decided whether the boat will be strip -planked or lapped but we estimate finished hull weight will be about 60 lb.
I owned a 14' sprit rigged Whitehall, built lapstrake from the plans in "Building Classic Small Craft" by Gardner. It was planked with Western Cedar, varnished inside and out, with tanbark sails. Rowed beautifully and sailed well with the spritsail keeping the center of effort low. One of my favorite boats (I've owned 9 sailboats) but I moved to Arizona and didn't think the desert humidity would be good for a lapstrake boat sitting on a trailer.
It weighed considerably more than 60 lbs!
Good luck with your boat, it sounds like it will be great.
I like the kombi hull shape myself. The open canoe would be great for daysailing and canvas or clip on plywood decks for adventure. I’d probably have the floats for trips because the water is always cold here in BC. With the floats always there I’d put a centre board in each one. Or, deal with the trade off of having a daggerboard on centre. Not a big fan of the leeboard. Overall, I think the kombi allows more potential for tinkering. That’s a huge plus for me.
I was a co designer of the Bufflehead sailing canoe, which is in actuality the Artemis. Axel essentially copied the design. I would suggest that a canoe with a daggerboard is not optimal. In addition a leeboard or leeboards is also not optimal. These two canoes may sail close to the same speed but are very different in actual use, daggerboard vs leeboard. A daggerboard will be a hassle when coming into or leaving shore or sailing the shallows. This is not a minor difference. A leeboard is one answer but the surface piercing effect creates drag but sailing the shallows or coming and going from shore becomes so much easier. While one of the canoes you have cited is easier to build than the other a decked canoe offers a number of advantages if configured correctly. The Artemis is part way there but not quite in my experience as a devoted canoe sailor. There is a new design available that is in the prototype stage (two have been built and are awaiting new sails, it is called the Kaze). This canoe is unique in the world of canoe sailing in that it features twin bilge boards. Let me know here if you might be interested and perhaps we can talk.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply, Howard. The nearest body of water for me is Morro Bay, a National Estuary. Average depth varies between zero and 3-4 feet, depending on the tide. About 1/3 of the bay stays wet at low tide, but it can get sticky if you draw over 2-3’. I had never thought of bilge boards, but I can appreciate their advantages right away. The complexity of a decked vs open boat is not a deal breaker at all as I have built both. I am attracted to the beauty of the Artemis/Bufflehead, and would love to try a build with twin bilge boards if your prototypes work out. Please keep me posted!
The difference between Viola and Artemis (I'm Koos from the video up top, I own Wolf, my Artemis) and have sailed and paddled both). Sailing speeds = similar. Paddling Artemis is faster, since it is narrower. Sailing, Viola being more beamy is much easier and ergonomic to sail. Viola is designed as a easy lake racer, Artemis is more a boat for travel.
From the fact that you're considering Artemis, I assume you're thinking solo? If that's the case, you could always deck Kombi, which would still be simpler than Artemis (and maybe even simpler than the stock Kombi).
I'm also interested in the Kombi, so these comments are very useful. An advantage to the Kombi is that a kit with all the plywood cut out is available. The kits are available in various levels and with several options. https://www.jowoodworks.com/
jowoodworks@yahoo.com
Scot
my Artemis is built from a kit, but that came from Switzerland (and was held in customs because of white powder coming out of the box, epoxy thickener...) but not sure how close to Switzerland you are...
a decked Artimus, with a high sharp V coaming just forward of mast, lowering on it's way to the aft cockpit (for "those" days).
Mr. Morin,
Of all the plans for a sailing canoe my opinion is the Chesapeake Light Craft (“CLC”) Wanderlust Sailing canoe is the best design to come along in some time. “Among the more unique features of the design is an integrated Hobie Mirage Drive for auxiliary power. This drops into a trunk in the cockpit.” This feature alone would make it the better choice for those days when there is no wind and there is a long waterway to traverse. Key is the Wanderlust was designed with fuller ends for better weight capacity and stability under sail. The best choice if you are a solo voyager would be CLC’s Faering Cruiser. Really a very large canoe like form with better sea keeping abilities. I have plans for the Faering. Accommodations, storage, sliding rowing seat and seaworthy design all combine for superior choice over a canoe. I also have had direct interactions with John Harris and Dillion Majoros. They were excellent to work with and brought a high level of design functionality and aesthetic sense to a project I looked at. You may wish to consider these two options.
You mean the Waterlust canoe I think? It is an entirely different boat compared to Viola and Artemis. Yes the mirage drive is great, and in theory it can cartop, but it is much bigger wider and needs a trailer to transport. Both Viola and Artemis cartop easy.
I absolutely love the Waterlust canoe, but a different beast really. We had one at our Dorestad raid last year
https://youtu.be/HGUr73qR4i8?si=WfI6uda6FNWjjdjP
I have the plans to Arctic Skua from Selway Fisher. It's next up to build after I do some repairs to my 60 year old GP14. I prefered the Arctic Skua both because of it's traditional looks, but because of it's offset centreboard (offcentreboard?) that is tucked to the side of the cockpit instead of bisecting it. This leaves a large area for lounging or even sleeping aboard without needing to worry about the fragile nature of leeboards.
I can no longer paddle, due to very arthritic shoulders. That is why I am switching to a rowing/sailing boat. The additional capacity is also important to my beloved and me.
As a longtime canoe sailor, I prefer the beamier boat. At my age, I a not comfortable hanging out over the side, either on a pry or sitting on the rail. I have been able sail comfortably in most conditions. Although a set of amas came with my full-battened Balogh rig, I have never used them, as I consider them the equivalent of training wheels. The less dependent you are on them, the more skill you gain.
A single leeboard has always been satisfactory. I considered a centerboard or daggerboard but for various reasons have ever been happy with them.
I am currently developing a 15' x 42" sailing whitehall, developed from figure 72 in American Small Sailing Craft. The significant different from CLC's boat of the same overall dimensions will be in planking, as theirs is of 6 mm okume and, based on discussions with Don Betts, mine will be 3mm. It has not been decided whether the boat will be strip -planked or lapped but we estimate finished hull weight will be about 60 lb.
I owned a 14' sprit rigged Whitehall, built lapstrake from the plans in "Building Classic Small Craft" by Gardner. It was planked with Western Cedar, varnished inside and out, with tanbark sails. Rowed beautifully and sailed well with the spritsail keeping the center of effort low. One of my favorite boats (I've owned 9 sailboats) but I moved to Arizona and didn't think the desert humidity would be good for a lapstrake boat sitting on a trailer.
It weighed considerably more than 60 lbs!
Good luck with your boat, it sounds like it will be great.
I like the kombi hull shape myself. The open canoe would be great for daysailing and canvas or clip on plywood decks for adventure. I’d probably have the floats for trips because the water is always cold here in BC. With the floats always there I’d put a centre board in each one. Or, deal with the trade off of having a daggerboard on centre. Not a big fan of the leeboard. Overall, I think the kombi allows more potential for tinkering. That’s a huge plus for me.
Michael
I was a co designer of the Bufflehead sailing canoe, which is in actuality the Artemis. Axel essentially copied the design. I would suggest that a canoe with a daggerboard is not optimal. In addition a leeboard or leeboards is also not optimal. These two canoes may sail close to the same speed but are very different in actual use, daggerboard vs leeboard. A daggerboard will be a hassle when coming into or leaving shore or sailing the shallows. This is not a minor difference. A leeboard is one answer but the surface piercing effect creates drag but sailing the shallows or coming and going from shore becomes so much easier. While one of the canoes you have cited is easier to build than the other a decked canoe offers a number of advantages if configured correctly. The Artemis is part way there but not quite in my experience as a devoted canoe sailor. There is a new design available that is in the prototype stage (two have been built and are awaiting new sails, it is called the Kaze). This canoe is unique in the world of canoe sailing in that it features twin bilge boards. Let me know here if you might be interested and perhaps we can talk.
Very interested in your Kaze Howard!
Basically Axel built a Bufflehead, then thought things could be improved, that became Artemis.
Thanks for your thoughtful reply, Howard. The nearest body of water for me is Morro Bay, a National Estuary. Average depth varies between zero and 3-4 feet, depending on the tide. About 1/3 of the bay stays wet at low tide, but it can get sticky if you draw over 2-3’. I had never thought of bilge boards, but I can appreciate their advantages right away. The complexity of a decked vs open boat is not a deal breaker at all as I have built both. I am attracted to the beauty of the Artemis/Bufflehead, and would love to try a build with twin bilge boards if your prototypes work out. Please keep me posted!
Michael Morin
I think they both appear to sail equally well. The main difference is whether or not you want a decked boat.
The difference between Viola and Artemis (I'm Koos from the video up top, I own Wolf, my Artemis) and have sailed and paddled both). Sailing speeds = similar. Paddling Artemis is faster, since it is narrower. Sailing, Viola being more beamy is much easier and ergonomic to sail. Viola is designed as a easy lake racer, Artemis is more a boat for travel.