I am a fan of tung oil varnishes. unlike the urethane varnishes, it needs occasional touching up but is easily repaired and does not have to be fully stripped if there is a problem. Perhaps not super modern but it is satisfying.
My comment is that I do not like epoxy under varnish. It makes it much more difficult to refinish if you ever need to sand any part back to wood. Above the waterline just varnish on wood is plenty of protection, under the waterline there is no need for varnish.
What fun this is! Short story; when I was about to complete my CLC Passagemaker I searched Canada (where I live) and found a Cape Breton fisher who makes 9+ foot oars from white spruce which he harvests from the the bush, I presume near his home. He apologized for the shipping charge (100 CAD (about 70 USD!) but then the oars were only 50$ a piece so . . . I was tempted to send more. The fellow was 84 and had 'been to sea' since the age of 12 he said. Fished for species long-gone extinct (he was a fun-chap to correspond with (poor grammar)). When they arrived (beauties) I wrote again about sanding and finishing. HE was adamant . . . Scott, if these to be put on the wall (he hoped not) or is this a 'working vessel'?! I took that if "on the wall as art, go ahead and varnish!" Not sure what to say but thinking "working vessel' was the right answer -- I said so. To which this kind gentleman said "Then tung-oil and nothing more" He was meticulous in 'one coat, let sit for 7-8 minutes, then wipe off' -- and then let dry for 24 hours. Next day, same thing, repeat . . . for 7-8 days. Letting each application dry and 'harden' from the inside out (the way my wounds are supposed to heal, yes!). And by the end (7-8 days later), the finish might look like highly polished varnish. And he was right. Patience. And then every couple of years, lightly sand if you wish and apply another coat or two (and again that 7-8 minutes, wipe off excess, and WAIT 24 hours). So now when anyone asks what kind of a boat I have . . . ANSWER: "Tis a working boat, my friend; 'tis a working boat". Smile. Scott
I've worked with them all and still go to the question, "what is that wood used for?"....not a fan of high gloss finishes (except for nameboards). Prefer satin finish Captains varnishes for the pretty wood trims and often go to Sikkens natural teak for high abuse areas because it's so easy to reapply when needed- Water-based varnished in my experience don't wear as long, but with enough coats, will last the season-
Has anyone used Penetrol as a varnish “primer”. I’ve heard it helps a thinned varnish base coat penetrate bare wood. I’ve not tried it but it sounds like it might be a good idea?
That Petit has stopped selling the stuff ought to tell you all you need to know. If you want varnish use an oil based product. And don't put the West epoxy under it as a primer or anything else. If you really want to prime/seal under your varnish, use cpes. But that isn't necessary either. Simply thin the varnish 50% for the first coat, 25% for the next coat, then full on for the next six to eight.
I tried Halcyon once and didn’t enjoy it. It sets up very fast, and I couldn’t avoid brush marks and holidays no matter what I did. I was using it without thinning, so can’t comment on whether that makes a difference. Went back to solvent based after that.
I have a can of the exact same Sea Gold product and just started using it this fall and have used most of it up on interior wood on my boat. It has the advantages of going on quick and easy and clean up easy but it does not shine as good as varnish. Can't speak to the longevity yet but it's probably not a bad product for the money.
If you like Sea Gold, there's no reason to switch. There's plenty of it available on the marketplace and when I checked Petit's website, it was still listed there.
The only place I use varnish anymore is as a UV protectant over an epoxy finish (not boat related).
IF I was to want any wood exposed to the elements on a boat I'd use Sikkens Cetol or something similar. It's not quite as handsome a finish as real varnish, but it's close and far more tolerant of dings and other abuses and dead simple to touch up or refinish.
I used Total Boat Gleam on my boat last year. The varnish goes on smoothly and dries fast. I was able to put on three coats per day. I really liked the results and wondered why I had not used it before. I certainly will use it again.
I’ve gone to this product this year and love it! As far as halcyon goes I like it for indoor use. Generally I won’t use water based finishes (other than house paint!) for outdoor applications
I have not tried epoxy as a base coat, so I have no comment on that. However, I used for many years Minwax Helmsman to good effect. It has more of an auburn color Epithanes, but it is extremely easy to use. The only time I thinned was for a base coat of 50/50 mineral spirits and varnish. I used the regular gloss, but Minwax also makes a Helmsman version that is water based.
I am a fan of tung oil varnishes. unlike the urethane varnishes, it needs occasional touching up but is easily repaired and does not have to be fully stripped if there is a problem. Perhaps not super modern but it is satisfying.
My comment is that I do not like epoxy under varnish. It makes it much more difficult to refinish if you ever need to sand any part back to wood. Above the waterline just varnish on wood is plenty of protection, under the waterline there is no need for varnish.
What fun this is! Short story; when I was about to complete my CLC Passagemaker I searched Canada (where I live) and found a Cape Breton fisher who makes 9+ foot oars from white spruce which he harvests from the the bush, I presume near his home. He apologized for the shipping charge (100 CAD (about 70 USD!) but then the oars were only 50$ a piece so . . . I was tempted to send more. The fellow was 84 and had 'been to sea' since the age of 12 he said. Fished for species long-gone extinct (he was a fun-chap to correspond with (poor grammar)). When they arrived (beauties) I wrote again about sanding and finishing. HE was adamant . . . Scott, if these to be put on the wall (he hoped not) or is this a 'working vessel'?! I took that if "on the wall as art, go ahead and varnish!" Not sure what to say but thinking "working vessel' was the right answer -- I said so. To which this kind gentleman said "Then tung-oil and nothing more" He was meticulous in 'one coat, let sit for 7-8 minutes, then wipe off' -- and then let dry for 24 hours. Next day, same thing, repeat . . . for 7-8 days. Letting each application dry and 'harden' from the inside out (the way my wounds are supposed to heal, yes!). And by the end (7-8 days later), the finish might look like highly polished varnish. And he was right. Patience. And then every couple of years, lightly sand if you wish and apply another coat or two (and again that 7-8 minutes, wipe off excess, and WAIT 24 hours). So now when anyone asks what kind of a boat I have . . . ANSWER: "Tis a working boat, my friend; 'tis a working boat". Smile. Scott
I've worked with them all and still go to the question, "what is that wood used for?"....not a fan of high gloss finishes (except for nameboards). Prefer satin finish Captains varnishes for the pretty wood trims and often go to Sikkens natural teak for high abuse areas because it's so easy to reapply when needed- Water-based varnished in my experience don't wear as long, but with enough coats, will last the season-
Epifanes with thinner for first coats. It will last for years if kept out of the sun.
Has anyone used Penetrol as a varnish “primer”. I’ve heard it helps a thinned varnish base coat penetrate bare wood. I’ve not tried it but it sounds like it might be a good idea?
That Petit has stopped selling the stuff ought to tell you all you need to know. If you want varnish use an oil based product. And don't put the West epoxy under it as a primer or anything else. If you really want to prime/seal under your varnish, use cpes. But that isn't necessary either. Simply thin the varnish 50% for the first coat, 25% for the next coat, then full on for the next six to eight.
I tried Halcyon once and didn’t enjoy it. It sets up very fast, and I couldn’t avoid brush marks and holidays no matter what I did. I was using it without thinning, so can’t comment on whether that makes a difference. Went back to solvent based after that.
I have a can of the exact same Sea Gold product and just started using it this fall and have used most of it up on interior wood on my boat. It has the advantages of going on quick and easy and clean up easy but it does not shine as good as varnish. Can't speak to the longevity yet but it's probably not a bad product for the money.
If you like Sea Gold, there's no reason to switch. There's plenty of it available on the marketplace and when I checked Petit's website, it was still listed there.
The only place I use varnish anymore is as a UV protectant over an epoxy finish (not boat related).
IF I was to want any wood exposed to the elements on a boat I'd use Sikkens Cetol or something similar. It's not quite as handsome a finish as real varnish, but it's close and far more tolerant of dings and other abuses and dead simple to touch up or refinish.
I used Total Boat Gleam on my boat last year. The varnish goes on smoothly and dries fast. I was able to put on three coats per day. I really liked the results and wondered why I had not used it before. I certainly will use it again.
Agree
I’ve gone to this product this year and love it! As far as halcyon goes I like it for indoor use. Generally I won’t use water based finishes (other than house paint!) for outdoor applications
I have not tried epoxy as a base coat, so I have no comment on that. However, I used for many years Minwax Helmsman to good effect. It has more of an auburn color Epithanes, but it is extremely easy to use. The only time I thinned was for a base coat of 50/50 mineral spirits and varnish. I used the regular gloss, but Minwax also makes a Helmsman version that is water based.