I've done a fair amount of rowing and none of the four types of oar locks shown in plans referred to here are much good. You need to have oar locks that permit feathering of the oar if you are going to do any serious rowing. If you can't feather your oars, it is very hard to row into the wind. That eliminates one of the four types of locks shown, the one that clamps onto the oars. The problem with the other three types of locks shown is that when you use them, the oar tends to creep inward, and you have to keep pushing the oar out. The best type of oar lock is one with a thole pin on the gunwale, then a loop of rope or metal to keel the oar up against this pin. The pin is usually removable from the gunwale and stays with the oar and the loop. Duckworks sells such an oar lock. I do like this plan for oars though and I intend to try them out soon for the gunning dory I am building.
They look great and functional. Built "Hell for stout" as Capn Jack would say. For us there is a happy spot where some things get the intended job done and that is enough, esp if one is on a budget. If they just need short ship to shore trips, they're set. If someone plans to row for hours then a different path could be taken. We are very happy with a double paddle that we made last year from local lumberyard spruce (SPF), sized for our kayaks. The best of both worlds is when the right material shows up at the right price, and a boater with the right skills chops out a light, balanced, well shaped set of oars that suit both the rower and the boat :)
Our story line would be "If a free set of mullet skiff oars can get you where you want to go, why spend $$$ on a "pretty" set?
I've done a fair amount of rowing and none of the four types of oar locks shown in plans referred to here are much good. You need to have oar locks that permit feathering of the oar if you are going to do any serious rowing. If you can't feather your oars, it is very hard to row into the wind. That eliminates one of the four types of locks shown, the one that clamps onto the oars. The problem with the other three types of locks shown is that when you use them, the oar tends to creep inward, and you have to keep pushing the oar out. The best type of oar lock is one with a thole pin on the gunwale, then a loop of rope or metal to keel the oar up against this pin. The pin is usually removable from the gunwale and stays with the oar and the loop. Duckworks sells such an oar lock. I do like this plan for oars though and I intend to try them out soon for the gunning dory I am building.
Great Article!!....Almost makes me want to build another skiff...so I’ll need another set of oars!!!
They look great and functional. Built "Hell for stout" as Capn Jack would say. For us there is a happy spot where some things get the intended job done and that is enough, esp if one is on a budget. If they just need short ship to shore trips, they're set. If someone plans to row for hours then a different path could be taken. We are very happy with a double paddle that we made last year from local lumberyard spruce (SPF), sized for our kayaks. The best of both worlds is when the right material shows up at the right price, and a boater with the right skills chops out a light, balanced, well shaped set of oars that suit both the rower and the boat :)
Our story line would be "If a free set of mullet skiff oars can get you where you want to go, why spend $$$ on a "pretty" set?