The Inland Waters of Martha's Vineyard

Scott Brumenschenkel on these magical backwaters

Amidst the throngs of summer crowds, wealth and celebrity, Marthas Vineyard offers a unique and enchanting natural landscape that provides the intrepid small-boat mariner with a lifetime of exploration opportunities.  

The Great Ponds, bays, and lakes that span the length of the island from Wasquee to Aquinnah offer an alternate and arguably more intimate cruising option to the obvious choices surrounding the Island. These brackish, inland waters also provide an important ecological interface between the formidable waters of the North Atlantic and the myriad tributaries that form them while providing small craft cruisers with a more relaxed pace for exploration in comparison to the perils of the Vineyard Sound and open ocean. Cruisers can utilize ocean breezes and take in majestic expanses while enjoying the environmental buffer provided by dunes and shallow water. Bird life is abundant and aquatic creatures afford the opportunity to forage a meal. 

Access can be challenging given the cost of a ferry ticket and the intricacies of island road navigation, but the rewards are worth the effort. Katama Bay has excellent access, parking, and a proper ramp but those amenities are lacking on the Great Ponds of Edgartown, Tisbury, and Chilmark Great ponds so be prepared to get creative with your launchings and retrievals. Sadly, the Great ponds and their access points are further limited by the specter of private property and municipal regulations governing beach access, so do your research before setting your sights on exploring these gems. The shoulder seasons provide greater access to the natural beauty of the Vineyard and some respite from the summer crowds that might color your experience on the island. 

I gained a new appreciation for these cruising grounds when a mid-September excursion with an old friend to sail my 16’ melonseed skiff across the Vineyard Sound to the Elizabethan Islands was abandoned because of small craft warnings. Instead, we opted for the easy access and sheltered waters of Katama Bay, and with a single reef tied in to ward off any mishaps we set off from the Katama landing and were soon zipping along inches above the sand shoals that riddle the bay. 

Short tacking into the narrows of the upper bay we grounded Selkie along the serpentine shoreline of shifting sands that buffers the bay from the onslaught of the North Atlantic Ocean. After some exploring, a full moon rose over Wasque Point, as we marveled at the onset of twilight and the “end of the earth” ambiance. 

As the wind subsided the temperature dropped, and we prepared our shelter for the evening with a tarpaulin over the boom. Some simple fare augmented with a bottle of wine and conversation al fresco highlighted our evening afloat with the only sense of civilization being the occasional fisherman returning from their quest to land a prize fish for the annual Bass tournament. 

As luck would have it, we were treated to record low temperatures in the 20s. We flanked the centerboard trunk with sleeping mats and bags on the cedar floors, avoiding the brunt of the wind. Excellent ventilation and the soothing sound of wavelets lapping a wooden hull aided a restful sleep. 

In addition to this singular experience, we have organized several family flotillas with friends on assorted small boats to cross the Edgartown Great Pond. If your timing is good, you may find yourself the only soul on a long expanse of open beach. Should the North Atlantic surf prove intimidating or too cold, the tepid waters of the great Pond make an excellent bathing alternative, and there are miles of coves and inlets to explore amongst these magical back waters. •SCA•

My high school mascot was a sailor, so it was inevitable. A family history of woodworkers, a love of all things wet, and wanderlust dovetail nicely with small boat building and sailing. SELKIE was built from Mark Barto's design with a few modifications—namely flotation, a Beetlecat sail, and raised floors. She is fast and  can handle more than a prudent sailor should entertain. She is my third build and my wife has forbidden me to sell her. SELKIE has been seen testing the waters around New England since 2012.