Small-Boat Paradise

13 of the Best Small-Boat Cruising Spots in North America

There are countless wonderful waterways to explore aboard a small boat, and almost every one of them has the potential to offer an enjoyable daysail or micro-adventure, but the following list (in no particular order) features thirteen spots that SCA readers consider the very best. So get out your bucket list, here are some destinations you don’t want to miss—and because your boat is trailerable, every location is technically within reach.

Don’t see your favorite spot on the list? Feel free to comment making your case and we’ll consider publishing it in our continuing Small Boat Paradise feature.

From the Keys to Pensacola Bay, the Florida West Coast encompasses 5,025 miles of tidal shoreline. We’ll highlight three spots, each representative of the type of sailing one can expect.

Ten Thousand Islands, at the northern edge of the Everglades, are lush with vegetation. Mangroves, cypress trees, bromeliads, ferns and even orchids grow here. More than 360 bird species, including great blue herons, egrets, ospreys and roseate spoonbills, call this area home. The waters are alive with nearly 300 species of fish and it’s not unusual to watch dolphins hunting in the shallows. Manatees can be spotted and, yes, alligators, too.

Fort De Soto Park, at the mouth of Tampa Bay, is a jewel surrounded by heavily developed tourist beaches. With an excellent launch ramp and waterfront campground, it’s a great place to establish a base for exploring the surrounding uninhabited islands and shoals. A short sail across the entrance of Tampa Bay takes you to Egmont Key.

Cedar Key, an out of the way clam farming community, is surrounded by pristine islands. A few, such as Atsena Otie and Snake Key, have passes into their interiors. Teaming with birds, the islands are a joy to explore.

Access Points – Depending on the wind direction, launching from Goodland or Everglades City gives direct access to the Ten Thousand Islands. Everglades City is at the head of a 4-mile-long canal, so a motor is recommended. Fort De Soto has grassy small boat launch areas as well as an outstanding paved ramp. Cedar Key has two ramps in town.

Best Time to Visit – Summer is very hot and humid but great sailing weather starts in October and lasts through the end of May. Regular cold fronts in December through February can turn the weather cool and blustery for a couple of days.

Boats You Might See – A vast majority of the boats you’ll encounter are small runabouts and fishing boats. Many cruising sailboats ply the waters. Occasionally, a Sea Pearl or pretty, classic sharpie can be seen gunkholing in the shallows.

Why a Small Boat? – Most of the interesting spots are inaccessible to deep-draft vessels. Distances between shelter are often short, so a small boat is perfect for exploring the myriad creeks and islands.

Notable Events – Cedar Key Small Boat Meet, first weekend in May. Everglades Challenge, early March. Traditional Small Craft Festival at Sarasota Sailing Squadron, late March.

Potential Hazards – Plenty of protected bays with a shallow, but soft, bottom and generally calm seas in the Gulf of Mexico make for an often benign sailing environment. However, summer thunderstorms can be extremely violent with spectacular lightning. Oyster bars are common around Cedar Key. In the more populated areas weekend powerboat traffic poses the most significant hazard.

A Perfect Itinerary – Launch from Goodland and sail 9 miles to Panther Key. Either set up camp at Panther Key and daysail to explore the area or island hop until it’s time to head for home. Visit Cape Romano Shoals at low tide if the Gulf is calm. A large-scale chart, compass and GPS are a must as it’s easy to get disoriented in the channels among the countless mangrove-covered islands.

—Text and photo Simon Lewandowski

Immediately above the Niagara Escarpment and flanking the northern reaches of Lake Huron lie the North Channel and the Georgian Bay. At about 570 feet above sea level, the tide-less region provides a well-indented rocky coastline made of granite Canadian Shield. West to east, the North Channel extends over 150 miles with the eastern half marked with numerous small rocky islets. Manitoulin is the largest island in the world surrounded by freshwater. The rugged landscape, limited roads and reserved lands make for some isolated wilderness pockets. Among the First Nation People are numerous speakers of native languages. The north shore of the Georgian Bay offers further extension of the Channel with greater isolation.

Boat cruising is limited to those able to sail long distances across the Great Lakes, or able to trailer small craft to the region. The waters are well suited to small boats as aids to navigation are limited while extensive reefs come near the surface and rocky outcroppings mark the horizons. Entire stretches and bays are pretty much off limits to keelboats and power cruisers due to the many rocks near the surface. The backwaters are a veritable labyrinth of islands. Transit is usually daylight only, and rescue assistance is very limited—as is cell service. The north shore of the Georgian Bay offers exceptional beauty with isolation due to offshore reefs, and the interior French River region is popular with canoeists.

Access Points – From Sault Saint Marie in the west; Blind River, Sprague and Spanish along the Trans Canadian Highway. Little Current on Manitoulin Island is a longer drive but offers close access to McGregor Bay and the Georgian Bay. Killarney is well situated to the Channel and the Bay but requires a long drive through Sudbury.

Best Time to Visit – Mid-May and June, with September and early October the best. During the fall some regions are completely unoccupied.

Boats You Might See – Canadian youth training ships (the brigantines Pathfinder and Playfair) from Toronto.

Why a Small Boat — The quiet and solitude of the preferred wilderness backwaters are best accessible by shallow-draft boats, and the rocks literally keep big boats out.

Notable Events – I’m not sure how notable this might be—and apologies for the lack of details­-but I believe there is a small-boat cruising group that departs sometime in August from the village of Spanish.

Potential Hazards – Rocks, shoals and more rocks. I carry paper charts and have developed a sense that combines eyeballs and dead reckoning but it may pay to have the charts on an electronic device more suitable for poor weather. Strong winds with heavy rains can develop for days at a time all during the sailing season, so be prepared to sit out the storms stranded onboard, or on a rock. The area has a water snake (friendly) and the poisonous-but-shy Massasauga Rattler—and there are bears in them thar woods. Finally, of course, the area boasts sky-darkening flies and mosquitos during peak summer—another good reason to go in the offseason.

A Perfect Itinerary (several, actually) – From Sprague to the island group 5 nautical miles southwest, then east through Whalesback Channel to Spanish (about 30 miles). From Spanish southeast to the Benjamin Islands and return (about 25 miles). From Little Current east to Killarney, east along the Georgian Bay and return (about 50 miles). Killarney to East Key River (50 miles and a long hitchhike back to Killarney).

I would recommend a small, light, engineless sail-and-oar boat. (At my age the only way I can see doing this is with something like a Grumman Sport Boat that can easily be dragged ashore. My Drascombe Lugger is too heavy.)

Thanks for the opportunity to write about the best place I’ve ever sailed.

—Text and photo Greg Stamatelakys

In the central western part of Missouri, not far from the Kansas border in the heart of flyover country, you’ll find pristine Stockton Lake—a favorite for sailors from all over the region. The V-shaped, Army Corp of Engineers lake was built in 1972 and covers 39 square miles and offers three-hundred miles of shoreline.

The exemplary sailing conditions are courtesy of strong winds that whip-up in Oklahoma and Kansas, blowing consistently from the southwest across the lake. Although low bridges limit sailboat access to about a third of the lake, it’s still possible to set the tiller for a single 10-mile tack between the dam and the Highway 245 bridge.

Wildlife is abundant, with frequent deer, turkey, geese, and bald eagle sightings, and there are campgrounds around the lake and surrounding area. Stockton is relatively popular for waterskiing, fishing, and swimming in the clear Ozark water—but make no mistake, sailing is the thing here.

Access Points – Stockton State Park (one of three marinas on the lake) offers all of the usual amenities, including two launch ramps (free of charge) and over 350 boat slips. But there are eleven additional boat ramps located all around the lake.

Best Time to Visit – Spring through fall.

Boats You Might See – Hunters, Catalinas, and popular production sailboats—many surprisingly large. It’s one of the few lakes where you might see more sailboats than powerboats.

Why a Small Boat? – It’s not a huge lake, so smaller boats make sense—plus you can better explore the shallow coves and islands. Don’t forget to do some cliff jumping.

Notable Events – Sail Missouri Messabout in July, Governor’s Cup Regatta in September, and Meangene’s (Gene Berry) Halloween Hideout in October.

Potential Hazards – The occasional intoxicated jet skier or powerboater. Sudden strong winds. One hundred boats reportedly capsized when fierce winds blew through the first-ever Governor’s Cup.

A Perfect Itinerary – Reader Gene Berry says, “Launch at the Orleans Trail Marina (free) and cruise down to Stockton State Park Marina for ice cream, then down to the High Point Rec area for birdwatching. Spend the night or enjoy a moonlit sail back to Orleans Trail.” —Photo Gene Berry.

The South Texas coast has wind. Lots of wind. Windsurfing magazine calls Corpus Christi Bay, with an annual average windspeed of 10.5 knots and afternoon windspeeds that routinely hit two to three times that, a “world class windsurfing destination in our nation’s backyard.” These conditions prevail on most of the coast, for most of the year.

The Gulf Coast of Texas is 367 miles long, and has some great and mostly overlooked small-boat sailing spots. Due to events like the Texas 200, small-boat sailors are slowly becoming more aware of places like the Laguna Madre, Corpus Christi Bay, and the many smaller bays that line the inside of the barrier islands along the southern coast.

There are lots of places to stealth camp along the barrier islands, which are mostly undeveloped and owned by the state. There are some exceptions to this. In general, if you can see development on a piece of property, you want to find a different camping spot. For more civilized accommodations, check out the various marinas in (from south to north) Port Isabel, Port Mansfield, Corpus Christi, Port Aransas, Rockport, Seadrift, and Port O’Connor.

Spring and fall, there are migrating birds everywhere. You’ll see stingrays, a few manta rays, porpoises, and lots of fish, along with the occasional small shark. On land there are coyotes, wild pigs, raccoons, and snakes.

Access Points – There are good small boat ramps at Magnolia Beach, Port O’Connor, Rockport, Port Aransas, Corpus Christi, South Bird Island, Port Mansfield, and Port Isabel.

Best Time to Visit – From Memorial Day to Labor Day, you will share the water with hundreds of flats boats-the shallow draft, high-speed boats that are preferred by fishermen down here. Early spring and fall are great times to go sailing if you prefer to see less traffic on the water. Winter is even better.

Boats You Might See – In the ICW and the ship channels there is a lot of barge traffic and the occasional small tanker. Realize that small means 500 or 600 feet in length and give those guys a wide berth. There are lots of recreational fishing boats, shrimping and oystering boats in season, and the occasional small wooden sailboat.

Why a Small Boat? – All of the most interesting places can only be reached in a shallow-draft boat. A great example—the really beautiful 20-30 foot sand dunes in spots on the barrier islands that are seldom visited by humans, this because you have to go through a mile or more of shallow water to reach them.

Notable Events – The Texas 200 runs the second full week of June. The Port Aransas ply-Wooden Boat Festival is Columbus Day weekend in Port Aransas.

Potential Hazards – Strong winds, commercial shipping in the channels, heat, cold, oyster reefs, shallow water.

A Perfect Itinerary – Any part of the past routes of the Texas 200. You can get info on the many good primitive camping sites that have been used during the event by digging around through the accounts at www.texas200.com. My personal favorites are Paul’s Mott, directly across Aransas Bay from Rockport, and Army Hole, a decommissioned Army Air Force base across Espiritu Santo Bay from Port O’Connor.

—Text Chuck Pierce • Photo Chuck Leinweber

Due to the proximity of three major urban areas, the upper Chesapeake Bay is almost too popular. But with the right boat and a flexible itinerary, it can provide some excellent cruising away from the madding crowd. Seemingly infinite miles of shoreline—bays, rivers and creeks—mean finding a quiet spot away from it all is almost guaranteed. Doing this in a small boat doubles yours chances. If you are looking for solitude, a small creek can offer this. Looking for history? Some of the oldest towns in America seem almost unchanged from centuries past. And if you love to sail, this is a sailors’ Eden.

Access Points – There’s no shortage of convenient ramps and other means of putting in. An excellent reference is the Maryland Department of Natural Resources website (dnr.maryland.gov/Boating/Pages/water-access/boatramps.aspx) For detailed maps of ramps and other features, click on Talbot County for the St. Michaels area; Queen’s County for the Wye East River region, and Kent County for Chestertown and vicinity.

Best Time to Visit – The bay offers four seasons of boating. Sailors might prefer the shoulder seasons of spring and fall, when winds and temperatures are more moderate. Try to arrange your visit to avoid the weekend warriors in their powered behemoths. Midweek offers quiet anchorages and fewer annoying boat wakes.

Boats You Might See – Boating heritage is alive and well in the tidewater counties of Maryland. Sharpies, skipjacks and log canoes, along with bugeye oyster dredges are revered and preserved.

Why a Small Boat? – One could spend an entire life exploring the thousands of miles of Chesapeake shoreline and never see it all. This is especially true for the small-boat sailor, due to the profusion of small creeks and bays not accessible to boats with drafts exceeding three feet.

Notable Events – St. Michaels is a mecca for the traditional small-boat enthusiast. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s annual Mid-Atlantic Small Boat Festival, usually the first weekend of October, is a highlight for small-craft owners. (Check the museum’s website, www.cbmm.org) The anchorage at the Maritime Museum can fill up, but the Miles River system offers many options for lovely secure overnights, serene Hunting Creek being just one.

Potential Hazards – The bay and its tributaries are one of the most benign bodies of water in the country. Saying that, there are some things of which one should be mindful. The bay is shallow—that is, really shallow. While some areas may have depths of over 30 feet, most of the popular navigable waters rarely exceed 10 feet. While this fact contributes to it being a very suitable cruising area for small boats, it also means it can be whipped into a maelstrom almost instantly. Watch the weather, particularly the almost daily August squalls.

A Perfect Itinerary – With so many great cruises possible, choosing one to fit your particular desires and circumstances should be an easy matter. However, any overnighter that includes slipping into Still Pond Creek will provide a night’s rest befitting its name and make you want to return again and again. Or perhaps explore the Wye East River and find snug little Dividing Creek, where one can tie off to an overhanging branch and enjoy complete solitude. Recommended: After a day or so on the water, consider treating yourself to a night on the town at Chestertown. Reward your latest minor act of heroism at sea by staying in a 19th century B&B, and a meal out at any of the several restaurants in the historical district.

For more details on the Wye Island Natural Resources Management Area, check the website.

—Text Kurt Steinbach • Photo Ismael Mercado

Kentucky Lake and its neighbor, Lake Barkley, wrap around 170,000 acres of public land known as Land Between the Lakes. Connected by a canal, the two lakes provide over 3,000 miles of shoreline and scenic water. Coves and bays are plentiful, so anchorages are rarely far away, and bluffs and rolling hills provide a handsome backdrop. The waters are well marked, and good charts are available, so navigation is not a problem. Wildlife, including deer, wild turkey, bald eagles, and hawks live there, and you might get a quick look at a bobcat.

Access Points –The lakes are north of Nashville, Tennessee, by 90 miles or so, and are easily reached by I-24. Kentucky Dam State Park at Gilbertsville, Kentucky, and marinas at nearby Grand Rivers provide excellent access and facilities; to the south, state parks in Cadiz, Kentucky, and at Paris Landing, Tennessee provide good access and local knowledge. There are also ramps in Land Between the Lakes, and along the shores of both lakes.

Best Times to Visit –Spring can be breathtaking, with redbuds and dogwood trees lighting up a background of greens. The weather is iffy, and can bring lots of rain, wind, and steep chop, so stay up with the weather forecast. Late spring and summer have times of bugs, heat, and light winds, but some years provide great sailing weather. The fall brings cooler weather, generally, and good winds.

Boats You Might See – The resident boat population is predominately big and plastic, and there is no shortage of Hunters and such. But Potters, Sea Pearls, Montgomerys, and at least one Scamp have been spotted there. Bass boats and big barges are plentiful, too.

Why a Small Boat? – If you use one of the many unimproved ramps in the area, a small boat is easier to manage. There are nooks, crannies, anchorages, and places to go ashore that are denied to larger boats, and the matter of “air draft”—a shorter mast can allow the boat past overhanging trees which can complicate the passage of a larger boat.

Notable Events – Though not a boating event, the Hot August Blues Festival at Kenlake State Park features lots of talent, and many boats rafted up or anchored right behind the bandstand. Unlike the festival itself, enjoying the music from the water is free.

Potential Hazards –There are towboats pushing barges on both lakes. There are also fishing boats, and some personal watercraft, though the PWCs are usually not far from marinas and ramps. When anchoring, remember that there are many snags on the bottom which may try to capture your anchor. Consider beaching or tying off to a tree or branch. Also, remember that higher lake levels and heavy rains wash debris into the water, requiring a watchful eye. High water can close ramps, and low water can make some ramps unusable to larger boats. Storms can arrive quickly, delivering strong winds and steep chop.

A Perfect Itinerary – Do your homework about weather, places, and water levels, and choose a convenient starting point where you can leave your vehicle. For many people, that means the north end of the lakes, where you can launch near Kentucky Dam and head south, or take the canal over to Lake Barkley to explore. Barkley’s terrain often serves up tricky winds and good sport, while Kentucky’s winds tend to be more consistent, and can get a boat down the lake on some sweet reaches. If you live in mid-USA, it’s worth the trip.

—Text Steve Haines • Photo KY Lake Visitor’s Bureau

Sprinkled across the northern reaches of Puget Sound, flanked by the cities of Anacortes and Bellingham on the east and British Columbia’s Vancouver Island on the west, are the San Juan Islands…a crown jewel among cruising destinations in the Northwest.

Mostly rocky, with reef-studded bays that often feature welcoming sandy beaches at the shallow end, the San Juans are made up of 400 islands and rocks—128 named and worth mentioning—and 478 miles of shoreline. This is truly a small-boat cruising paradise, especially in late spring and early fall, when there are fewer large powerboats churning up the islands’ narrow channels and back bays. (We’ve camp-cruised the San Juans in April, since the islands are in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, enjoying warm afternoons and rarely seeing other boats. The scene in mid-summer is very different!)

The San Juans boast the largest concentration of bald eagles in the continental U.S., along with resident pods of orcas and abundant populations of harbor seals, Dall’s porpoise, black oystercatchers, great blue herons, pigeon guillemots, rhinoceros auklets and other wildlife.

Some of the most popular cruising destinations are on the best-known islands in the San Juans—Sucia, San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, Stuart, Shaw, Blakely, Matia and Jones. Towns and villages include Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor (San Juan Island), Deer Harbor, Rosario and Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Lopez Village (Lopez Island).

Access Points – Small boats usually launch in Anacortes, Bellingham, Sandy Point Shores Marina (northwest of Bellingham) or Port Townsend. While the run into the islands is relatively protected, boaters starting in Port Townsend face a 21-mile open-water crossing of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, mandating a close look at weather conditions.

Best Time to Visit – April or May (before Memorial Day) and September into October (after Labor Day), when there are fewer big, monster-wake powerboats.

Boats You Might See – Whalewatching tourboats, classic schooners like the 133-foot Adventuress, SCAMPs, Bartenders, lots of cruising sailboats and recreational fishing boats, along with the aforementioned powerboats.

Why a Small Boat? –The islands are loaded with small back-bay gunkholing spots accessible only by small boat. Plus, trailer boats and car-toppers can get into the middle of the San Juans by boarding Washington State Ferries that depart from Anacortes, with stops at the following islands: Orcas, Shaw, Lopez and San Juan.

Notable Events – Sucia Island Small-Boat Rendezvous, second week of July, and the Deer Harbor Wooden Boat Rendezvous, first weekend of September.

Potential Hazards – Rocky reefs, fast tidal currents, occasional strong winds, shipping traffic in Haro Strait, Boundary Pass and Rosario Strait, Washington State Ferries and big, scary powerboats on autopilot (forget theoretical rules of the road—just imagine that none of their skippers see you, and steer clear).

A Perfect Itinerary – Loop through the San Juans by sailing west from Anacortes, with possible overnight stops at Fisherman Bay (Lopez Island); Turn Island State Park (adjoining San Juan Island); Jones Island State Park; Prevost Harbor (Stuart Island), or the adjoining cove inside Satellite Island; maybe Roche Harbor (San Juan Island) for groceries and a shower; the inner reaches of Fossil Cove (Sucia Island), and/or the small cove at the southeast tip of Matia Island before returning to Anacortes. The same general route could be followed in reverse if launching at Sandy Point Shores Marina, northwest of Bellingham.

—Photo Marty Loken.

The California Delta is located roughly between the cities of Sacramento on the north and Stockton on the south and encompasses about 1,000 miles of waterways. All the major waterways and many of the sloughs have bridges that will swing, lift, or rise like the Isleton Bascule Bridge. The Delta is a labyrinth of sloughs with names like Little Potato Slough, Snodgrass Slough, Steamboat Slough, Georgiana Slough, Whiskey Slough and many more. While exploring these waterways, at almost every turn you will be treated to vistas of vine-covered trees, blackberry brambles, and tule grass. There is also abundant wildlife, including great blue herons, egrets, geese, ducks, and of course fish. On occasion we even get ocean visitors. In the 1980s Humphrey, a humpback whale, spent two weeks in the Sacramento River at Rio Vista.

The major waterways have deep-water channels for ocean going freighters. These are primarily found on the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The channels are clearly marked and average 35 feet in depth. The rest of the waterways average 10 feet, and in most cases you can get very close to the shore.

Access Points – There are many launching points for small boats in the Delta. Some of the more popular ones are Rio Vista, Branann Island, and Delta Marina. Rio Vista city ramp charges you $10 to launch and parking is free. It is an ideal place to start a multi-day cruise.

Best Time to Visit – From May to the end of October all the operating bridges are manned. The rest of the year you must call the Rio Vista bridge and request an opening for whatever bridge you wish to pass. You must give a three hour lead time. In the summer the wind is about as strong as it is on San Francisco Bay. The Delta does get warm— close to 100 degrees, however, the water is refreshing and does cool off at night. You can stop and swim almost anywhere.

Boats You Might See – The major rivers will have the occasional freighter carrying rice, however, on weekends you will have water skiers, and small fishing boats. Some of the sloughs, like Georgiana Slough, have protected sections that restrict speed to 5 mph. You will see sailboats on most rivers and some sloughs in the Delta.

Why a Small Boat? – A small boat with retractable keel is ideal. Raise the keel and sail up onto one of the many beaches throughout the Delta. Some of the sloughs do get narrow so one will appreciate a smaller boat. A motor is almost mandatory on the Delta.

Notable Events – Latitude 38’s Delta Do Da, the Stockton Sailing Club’s Delta Ditch Run, Rio Vista Bass Festival, Lake Washington Sailing Club’s Dinghy Delta Ditch, Potter Yachters Delta and Bridges sails.

Potential Hazards – Underwater grass, usually found near the shore, powerboats, and water hyacinth are some of the potential hazards. The hyacinth, not a native plant, especially in late summer can plug up some waterways and marinas. When the wind is blowing against the tide, steep waves can occur.

A Perfect Itinerary – Leave Rio Vista and sail south for several miles and then beat west down the Sacramento River to the city of Pittsburgh. Here you turn east onto New York Slough to the San Joaquin River. Sailing east and north, you will have the wind over your shoulder most of the way up the San Joaquin, to the Mokelumne River. A short distance on the “Moke” River, the local name for the Mokelumne, you will pick up Georgiana Slough which will take you back to the Sacramento River in Walnut Grove. Continue up the river to Steamboat Slough and follow the slough back to the Sacramento and Rio Vista.

Along the route there are many full-service marinas, and almost an infinite number of places to anchor. Most of the small river towns you will encounter will have a city dock. The Rio Vista bridge operates 24 hours a day. The Mokelumne River, Tyler Island, Georgiana Slough, Walnut Grove, and Steamboat Slough bridges are manned from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m.

—Text Bud Kerner • Photo Don Person

Nestled in between heavily forested mountains, the large lakes of northern Idaho are great sailing destinations. Lake Coeur d’ Alene is considered by many to be one of the most scenic lakes in the world, but to my eye, its two sisters to the north surpass its undisputed beauty with even more rugged mountains and less crowded shorelines.

Lake Pend Oreille is the largest of the three at 43 miles long and up to 6 miles wide. At the north end of the lake is the city of Sandpoint, consistently voted one of the best places in America to live. From there the further south you go, the less populated the shoreline becomes, until you reach the fiord-like southern tip, where the small community of Bayview and the popular Farragut State Park repopulate the lake with a brief flurry of boat traffic that quickly diminishes once you head back into the quieter waters just to the north.

Just 24 miles north of Pend Oreille is one of the most treasured lakes in the region—Priest Lake. Beautiful clear waters, rugged mountains, gorgeous sunsets, islands, huckleberries, quiet anchorages—it’s all here. Smaller than Coeur D’Alene and Pend Oreille, Priest is still a good-size body of water at 25 miles long and up to 3 miles wide. It hosts several campgrounds, marinas, and restaurants. To truly get away from it all, cruise up the meandering Thorofare into one of the loveliest places you can reach by boat—Upper Priest Lake—a roadless, quiet, only two-and-a-half-mile-long lake that offers several beautiful campsites.

Access points – Lake Pend Oreille: Sandpoint City Beach at the north end, and the Bayview public ramp or Farragut State Park at the south—Farragut being best for overnight parking.

Priest Lake – Most of the marinas have ramps, but nearly all are too shallow for sailboats. The best options are the Kalispell Bay public ramp on the west side and Indian Creek State Park on the east. Canoes and kayaks can launch at the north end at Beaver Creek campground for quick access to Upper Priest Lake.

Best time to visit – May through September. July and August are the prime months for summer vacationers, but the winds can be erratic then and the lakes get very busy on weekends.

Boats you might see – Pend Oreille has a good sailing community at Sandpoint and Bayview, but fishing and water-sport boats make up the majority on both lakes.

Why a small boat? – Trailerability to move between these lakes is the biggest benefit, but an important second plus is the ability to travel up the Thorofare to Upper Priest Lake. Deep draft boats can’t get there.

Notable events – Fishing tournaments, 4th of July activities, Sandpoint Music Festival.

Potential hazards – Deep cold water and these large lakes can get rough during high winds and thunderstorms.

A Perfect Itinerary – Launch at Farragut State Park on the southern end of Pend Oreille. Just a couple miles farther down at the very tip of the lake is Buttonhook Bay, a totally protected anchorage with plenty of free dock space. After a quiet night there, sail out past the southern cliffs, watching for mountain goats as you go. Head up the lake to Whiskey Rock, a protected nook with docks and camping. If it’s too busy there, carry on to Granite Creek where there is a small dock and a nice anchorage. Or catch a buoy across the lake at Maiden Rock. If you have time, sail clear up to Sandpoint where the shopping and dining is all within easy walking distance. Be sure to stop at Hope in Eastport Bay along the way to dine at the floating restaurant, before heading back south to pull out.

Next, head up to Priest Lake, about a 60-mile drive. Launch at the Kalispell Bay ramp. Spend a day sailing around the islands and exploring the southern end of the lake. Anchor on the west side of Kalispell Island or get a campsite on shore. The next day head north and anchor in Distillery Bay. Then on to Upper Priest Lake through the Thorofare (3-foot depth in places). Spend at least one night, preferably two, at anchor or at one of the many boat-in campsites, to absorb the quiet solitude before heading back down the lake.

—Text and photo Larry Yake

Years ago, when working as an alternate Captain on a Friendship sloop out of Tenant’s Harbor on Penobscot Bay, I used to see a nice varnished Swedish-style cruising sloop with a Swiss flag. One day I spotted the owner aboard and stopped to chat as I rowed my tender back from the Friendship’s mooring. I asked him why he was here, and he said that he could afford to keep his boat anywhere in the world, but the Maine coast was the best cruising ground and Penobscot Bay was its highlight.

The bay is about 30 miles across and 40 deep from Monhegan and Isle au Haut to the mouth of the Penobscot River. In it, are two main island clusters: the Fox Islands with North Haven and Vinalhaven and Deer Isle/ Stonington. To the south are Swan’s Island/ Frenchboro and Isle au Haut (most of which is a National Park). There are scores of lesser islands. And at sea there are the remote islands of Matinicus and Monhegan. The southern ones, clustered thickly off Stonington are mostly lumps of granite, many of which were quarried.

The best information about Penobscot Bay and cruising the Maine Coast in a small boat comes from the Maine Island Trail Association. Their guidebook, which can be downloaded as an application for phones or tablets (www.mita.org/app/), lists everything from launch sites to island destinations. When you join MITA you get a hard copy of the guidebook as well as a code to unlock access to privately owned islands whose owners let people use them.

Access Points – Almost every town has a launching ramp but few have longterm adjacent trailer parking. Some boat launches are over beaches. Rockland has adjacent trailer parking and two all-tide ramps. Camden and Rockport have good ramps but parking is limited. On the east side, Benjamin River has a decent-by-Maine-standards ramp. Some commercial yards like Atlantic Boat Co. on Herrick Bay have ramps and secure parking.

Best Time to Visit – Late August and early September have the warmest water and least chance of fog.

Boats You Might See – The schooners of Maine’s windjammer fleet. Handsome yachts attracted by the Eggemoggin Reach Race. Lots of lobsterboats. Cruising sailboats. Big powerboats are relatively rare. Car ferries serve Isleboro, North Haven and Vinalhaven.

Why a Small Boat? – Most of the bay can be cruised by any size boat, but shoal draft and the ability to ground out will open up passages and coves hard to reach by larger boats. Small boats can work the tides to sail over the intertidal zone.

Notable Events – The Small Reach Regatta (July 19-22, 2017 at Blue Hill Bay, just east of Penobscot Bay) is put on by the Downeast Chapter of the Traditional Small Craft Association. The event is generally held in the Penobscot Bay, but has also been in neighboring bays. Eggemoggin Reach Race, out of Brooklin, is held the first weekend of August (Aug. 5-6, 2017)

Potential Hazards – Tidal range is 10-11 feet, but currents are usually not more than 2 knots. Fog is not uncommon in June and July, and is less common as the water warms. A fog mull can set in for some days with one boat-length visibility.

Afternoons may see an occasional thunderstorm, but more usual is a 10-knot southwesterly breeze which can pipe up to the 20s. These can generate seas, especially on open crossings. Mornings are often flat calm. The main shipping lane is on the west side of the bay. The car ferries run continually throughout the day in summer. Lobster-trap buoys are everywhere and lobsterboats at work are focused on hauling and heading for the next trap—they’re not looking for you, so beware.

There are few marinas, with most towns having moorings. There are usually town docks which will let you tie up for awhile for shopping. Resupply stores within walking distance are in Camden, Castine, Vinalhaven (Carver’s Harbor) and Stonington. Frenchboro, Isle au Haut, Swans’s Island and Monhegan have island stores with almost anything you’d need. If you don’t have a dinghy, getting ashore from a small sailing boat can be tricky. You would need to rig an outhaul-based anchoring system or find a spot to ground out.

A Perfect Itinerary – Launch in Rockland, head east through the Fox Island Thorofare then up to the north end of Eggemoggin Reach, down the Reach to the island chains off Stonington. (Any small-boat cruiser should stop at WoodenBoat magazine’s office in Brooklin, on the Eggemoggin Reach. Moorings are available. Check locally for lobsterboat racing, quite the spectator event.)

From the Stonington area, you can opt to visit Isle au Haut, Swans Island and Frenchboro. In the Acadia National Parks on Isle au Haut there is marvelous hiking. Return to Rockland around the south end of Vinalhaven. Stop and explore the quarries of Hurricane Island.

If time permits swing out to Matinicus or Monhegan. Sailing east and north you generally have favorable winds; heading back will require windward work. Island stops are many, laid out in the MITA guidebook.

—Text Ben Fuller • Photo Allan Pickman

Door County, Wisconsin is the 100-mile-long peninsula that separates Green Bay (the body of water, not the city) from Lake Michigan. Technically, northern Door County starts at Sturgeon Bay but for the purposes of this story let’s concentrate on the most popular boating and tourist section, from Egg Harbor to Sister Bay. This 20-mile stretch of the western shore of Door County is made up of limestone bluffs, four harbor villages, nine islands, Peninsula State Park, and multiple coves for anchoring and swimming. At this point, Green Bay is approximately 20 miles wide. Across the Bay to the west are the twin cities of Marinette, WI and Menominee, MI. Both have marinas, restaurants, hotels and shopping within easy walking distance of the harbors. The city of Green Bay is 60 miles to the south. Every summer day boaters make the day-trip to the Door County side for what the Door villages and coves have to offer.

This area of Door County is not only a boater’s paradise, but it’s also the heart of tourism for vacationers from throughout the Midwest. Boaters spend the days sunning themselves, swimming, fishing, cruising, sailing and enjoying some of Wisconsin’s famous beverages. Waterfowl abound: ducks, geese, egrets, herons and pelicans are just some of the birds spotted along shorelines and islands. Nights are spent relaxing in the harbor villages’ marinas or anchoring out in safe gunkholes. Favorite anchorages include Fish Creek, North Bay of Chambers Island or Nicolet Bay and Horseshoe Island (Peninsula State Park). All four villages: Egg Harbor, Fish Creek, Ephraim and Sister Bay have both public and private marinas. These are “walking” towns so there is no feeling of being boat-bound.

Access Points – The villages of Egg Harbor, Fish Creek, Ephraim and Sister Bay have public, improved launch ramps at a cost of about $7.00. Free trailer and vehicle parking is available nearby in each village. Peninsula State Park’s launch ramp is free but you are required to have a day or seasonal entry pass. Parking in the park is also within walking distance of the ramps.

Best Time to Visit – Long summer days and warm nights are most popular. Wise boaters take advantage of the spring blossom time as well as “sailor’s month”—September.

Boats You Might See – You name it. Com-Pac 16s to 60-foot schooners, open fishing boats to large power cruisers.

Why A Small Boat? – Nine islands with coves, four villages with protected harbors, the seven-mile shoreline of Peninsula State Park—that’s why. Afternoon anchoring-out is a tradition in Door County. Multiple kayak launch sites mean you can explore the waters of Green Bay and the villages close up.

Notable Events – Fyr Bal in Ephriam (Solstice weekend); each village has its own 4th of July festival (fireworks on three different nights); Blossom Fest, and Marina Fest in Sister Bay (Labor Day weekend).

Potential Hazards –Reefs, shoals and underwater points. A depthfinder, GPS or chart of the area is a must. Door County is part of the Niagara Escarpment; that means there are rocks everywhere. Don’t trust the renters of pontoons, wave-runners and powerboats—they may not know the rules of the road.

A Perfect Itinerary – Start from the south at Egg Harbor and sail north to Fish Creek (7 miles). This stretch is wide open with a nice southwesterly breeze off the port quarter. You will arrive just after cruising past Cottage Row where wealthy folk built their historic summer homes at the turn of the 20th century. Fish Creek’s harbor is well protected so you can anchor anywhere outside of the mooring field and take a short dinghy ride to the Fish Creek Town Dock. If you have no dinghy, don’t worry, FCTD has two-hour complimentary tie-ups on the dock. (You can get a transient slip online at the Fish Creek Town Dock or Alibi Marina.)

When leaving Fish Creek, sail north along Peninsula State Park in the Strawberry Channel. This two-mile-wide channel is bordered on the port side by the Strawberry Islands. You will see Eagle Bluff Lighthouse and Sven’s Bluff to starboard. After taking a hard right around Welker’s Point you will be in Nicolet Bay. This is the place to be on weekend afternoons: boat ramp, big beach, campsites, concessions, live theater, bathroom/showers, hiking trails and nature center. Spend the day and night here…free. If the wind is from the north, sail out one mile to Horseshoe Island and gunkhole inside the horseshoe. From here it is a short sail to Eagle Harbor and Ephraim, viewing Eagle Bluff and sea caves on the right. Enjoy this historic Norwegian/Moravian village on the hill.

Sailing north from Ephraim to Sister Bay is another seven miles of beautiful bluffed shoreline with summer homes. Stop along the way at the dock in Little Sister Bay for lunch at Fred and Fuzzy’s outdoor restaurant. Resume your trip north to the village of Sister Bay.

Have someone bring your vehicle and trailer to Sister Bay from Egg Harbor (30 minutes away by road) or return south by water. A powerboat can do this trip in a day, a sailboat in a weekend but you will want to explore the uniqueness of all four villages and surrounding waters, so plan on spending as much time as possible.

— Text and photo Gerry Schwaller

On the inside of the Outer Banks is a body of water known as the Pamlico Sound. It’s the largest lagoon on the East Coast of the U.S., fed by the Neuse and Pamlico rivers. It is also home to a number of quaint towns.

Located on the Neuse River, “The Sailboat Capital of North Carolina,” Oriental (population 900) is the perfect spot to launch. This is your “base camp.” From here the possibilities are limited only by your time to spend on the water. The abundant rivers and creeks attract small-boat sailors who have little concern for draft, and naturalists who appreciate watching Mother Nature put on her show.

In Oriental there are launch ramps ready for your use, and they are seldom busy. You can park your vehicle and trailer for a week without charge. The local constabulary patrols nightly. Tie up at the free docks bordering Hodges Street, and walk around the nearby shops or buy fresh fish off the local boats.

From the ramp at Oriental, you will sail out on the Neuse, which is one of the widest rivers in the U.S. at around six miles wide. Even the deepest areas rarely exceed 25 feet, and average depth in many areas is only six or seven feet. There is no tide, as such, on the river, but the depth can be affected by the wind. This unspoiled inner banks area of shallow, protected water is a truly amazing year-round small-boat cruising ground.

Access Points – Smith’s Creek ramp in Oriental, Dawson’s Creek ramp 2.7 miles east of Oriental.

Best Time to Visit – March to November, except for August which can be hot and still.

Boats You Might See – Fishing vessels, Precision sailboats (including mine), Cape Dorys, Catalinas, Com-Pacs and San Juans.

Why a Small Boat? – Shallow water and soft bottoms, unspoiled shoreline and creeks to explore.

Notable Events – New Years Day Regatta near Oriental, NC. “May the best boat win” (which is decided by the lucky name drawn from a hat after the race.) Further south, the Around Harkers Island Race in July.

Potential Hazards – High winds and shallow water mean steep chop. Mosquitoes. You may notice they have “marshalled” on the bug screen covering the hatch door and are waiting for you to make a dash for the cockpit.

Perfect Itinerary – For those armed with mosquito repellent, an overnight in Turnagain Bay or Long Bay. Between Turnagain Bay and Long Bay is “The Old Canal.” Depth is about four feet. The width is about 30 to 40 feet. From there, sail from Long Bay to West Thorofare Bay and enter “The Thorofare” (canal), pass under the bridge and sail out into Core Sound. Head north to Cedar Island or head south to Cape Lookout. The Highway 12 bridge connects Cedar Island with the mainland.

Sail across to Adams Creek, down the Intracoastal Waterway, and sail out Beaufort Inlet, head east for Cape Lookout, anchor in the “hook” or off Shackelford Banks, depending on the wind direction, and watch the wild horses on the shoreline. You can hike over to the Cape Lookout Lighthouse. Occasionally, visitors can climb the lighthouse steps to really get a birds-eye view. A visit to the former Coast Guard station is a treat.

—Text Buck Buchanan • Photo Steve Earley

The lower Columbia River, defined as the 146-mile stretch of water between the Bonneville Dam and Astoria at the coast—has to be one the best places imaginable for small-boat cruising.

As the Columbia winds toward the Pacific it passes through a variety of discrete landscapes—from steep canyon walls shrouded in mist, to open farmland, to the urban center of Portland, to the salt-air-and-sea-lion coastal climate near Astoria. All along the way you’ll come across sloughs, creeks, and islands ripe for exploration.

The river can seem alternately remote and civilized. Long stretches are wooded and unspoiled, while other sections are more or less industrial, but you’re never far from a shallow-water tributary worth crawling into by sail or oars. And marinas and other shoreside facilities are always within reach on either the Washington or Oregon sides of the river.

If the spectacular natural setting isn’t enough, there’s also the history. This same stretch of water is part of the 450 miles the Lewis and Clark expedition traveled entirely by water, and there are hundreds of historical and cultural sites to note or visit.

Access Points – There are countless ramps and access points along the lower Columbia, with one of the farthest upriver being the ramp at Beacon Rock State Park, where you can launch directly into the heart of the Columbia River Gorge. Another popular launch spot is the Elochman Marina and launch ramp in Cathlamet, Washington. Located at river mile 38, Cathlamet is a historical river town within easy striking distance of many interesting sites.

Best Time to Visit – Summer might be best, but spring and fall are great as well.

Boats You Might See – All kinds of fishing boats, freighters, car-carriers, tugs, as well as plenty of sailboats—especially Ranger 20s, Merits, J-Boats and other popular fleets. In the deeper backwaters you’ll likely see a variety of oddball floating homes and shantyboats.

Why a Small Boat? – Outside the channels in the middle of the river are myriad expansive but very shallow waterways you’ll want to explore. Launch at different sections to focus on a particular area.

Notable Events – The Cathlamet Wooden Boat Festival in early September. Small-boat sailors visiting the lower Columbia will want to make contact with the Oregon Coots, a small-boat club that regularly schedules gatherings on or near the river. www.coots.org. Also visit www.riverswest.org.

Potential Hazards – Rough seas from big afternoon breezes coming upstream against the current in the summer are an obvious hazard, as are tugs, barges, freighters and other marine traffic. Remember also that your beached boat is vulnerable in the main channel where large vessels passing create powerful breaking waves on shore. Another hazard particular to the Columbia are the many wing dams. These structures, designed to force water into the central channel and reduce the need for dredging, are often submerged and, combined with the many leftover rotted pilings found along the river’s edge, are a significant concern for small boats navigating the river.

Perfect Itinerary – If you’ve got the time, try the full route taken on the so-called Columbia 150 small-boat event, and go from Beacon Rock all the way to Astoria. While it can be done in five or six days, ten days would be better so you can find time to explore tempting shallow creeks and backwaters. This long route also lets you experience the river’s many personalities. Don’t forget to take a Columbia River guidebook and some Lewis and Clark history along so you can identify various sites.

Recommended reading: Reach of Tide, Ring of History: A Columbia River Voyage by Sam McKinney. •SCA•