Salish 100 or Bust

Article and photos by Mark Waters and Renge’ Waters

If you’re like me and generally gravitate towards solitary activities like backpacking, bicycle or motorcycle touring, or sailing, you prefer the freedom of going it alone. But every once in a while a group event comes along that makes me think this looks like a fun way to do my own thing in the company of like minded folks. The Salish 100 is just such an event. Started in 2019 by Marty Loken in Port Townsend and now organized by the Northwest Maritime Center, it’s a 7-day non-guided but organized group sail in Puget Sound from Olympia up to Port Townsend. I have wanted to participate since the first run in 2019 but was late to register. There were several of us late comers who were asked to bow out—so many had signed up that the Coast Guard asked Marty to put a cap on attendance. My Gig Harbor Scamp (#1 out of the fiberglass mold!) and I had to wait until the favorable winds of life blew once more in my direction. This January we put our registration in early for the 2024 Salish 100 and were accepted. 

By then I’d transitioned through several boats and arrived at our current Serpentaire 6.50, an off-shore capable custom built sloop named Wayward Too. She just made the 22’ cutoff point for size at 21’ 4”. We bought her in the summer of 2023 up on Vancouver Island from one of two old friends who built her over a nine-year period to sail to Hawaii. She was built from scratch using plans by the naval architect Bernard Veys. I believe she’s the only Serpentaire in North America. The voyage to Hawaii never materialized as the other person who was involved in the build passed away and his friend didn’t want to singlehand the trip. Consequently, she only ever spent 3 or 4 weeks on the water and the rest in covered storage so was in excellent shape when we picked her up. 

The first time her keel touched water with us was the launch at Swantown Marina in Olympia two days before the start of the Salish 100. I wanted to arrive early since I figured there’d be a certain amount of sorting out and getting oriented our first time. Thinking we’d be arriving well in advance of the rest of the 65 boats participating proved wrong as (and as it turned out fortuitously for us) a sizable number of Salish-ers were already launched and at the docks.

I spent the 12 months after buying Wayward Too getting her ready to be a suitable cruising home for my wife Renge’ and myself. The previous owners were content to use inflatable backpacking air pads on the cabin berths, whereas we prefer actual cushions. We installed a solar panel and controller, vhf hard mount radio, transom ladder and other necessary gear.

We had the 9.9 hp outboard professionally serviced and test-started the previous fall and felt good about our preparedness. Turns out I had overlooked draining the gas out of the carb for winter, and upon launching, discovered the motor would reluctantly start but not run. 

What followed was a rescue by what I call a Sail Angel (to steal a term used by through-hiking backpackers: trail angel) in the name of Dan Rogers. Since I’m not adept at anything related to motor repair, Dan supplied tools and patient direction on how to remove the gummed up carburetor so it could be rushed over to Sail Angel #2, Tanner, from Tom’s Outboard. Even though he was three weeks backed-up with work on outboards at their shop, this young man offered to stay after hours to clean the carb. He then delivered it to us, installed it, and waited patiently while we relaunched so he could tune and adjust the motor in the water. It ran flawlessly all the way to Port Townsend after that. Without Tanner and Dan’s help we would have had to load Wayward Too back on the trailer and head back home to central Oregon with our tails between our legs.

One of our two Sail Angels, Dan Rogers, who helped get the outboard running.

Day 1: The first day consisted of a 13-mile leg to Henderson Inlet, which set the stage for the rest of the week with primarily light intermittent wind and more motoring (or rowing for some) than sailing. An early start to catch the favorable ebb tide north saw a wide variety of small craft departing the marina: trailersailers (the largest group consisting of Montgomery 15s and 17s), rowing/sailing craft including one very new and lovely Norseboat, as well as several wooden boats built by their owners, plus a few vessels that were rowing only. One of the fun aspects of doing a group cruise like this is checking out the various boats and how their owners have set them up for small craft cruising. I was surprised at the absence of any SCAMPS, given that in the past there have been a lot of them in attendance.

Our destination for the day was anchoring (or camping) a ways up Henderson Inlet, adjacent to a property offered to the Salish-ers. Our gracious hosts (previous Salish 100 sailors) provided dinghy landing camp sites, water, shade and even an Oyster BBQ. Many of us enjoyed the mild water temperatures and had refreshing dips to counter-balance the heat of the day. Good holding ground and calm winds provided a good night’s rest. Unfortunately, my first time rowing our inflatable mini dinghy proved challenging— it wasn’t possible to fit two adults and Hazel the sailor dog in it comfortably. And after 3 trips back and forth my back had had it, so thankfully, that was the last use of the dinghy.

Day 2: The group moved north on the Nisqually Reach 12 miles to Longbranch Marina. The morning continued with very little wind, which had me wishing for a boat better suited for rowing than our 3500-pound offshore capable sloop. One poor soul found himself too close to shore on a rapidly ebbing tide and got his Monty 15 stuck for quite awhile. He took it in good grace, which is more than I likely would have done. Squeezing everyone into the limited space at Longbranch was a challenge but accomplished with the help of Dan and others who arrived early. The shade provided by the pavilion, along with the ice and ice cream available there, was most welcome on this second hot summer afternoon. At Longbranch, as well as a few of the upcoming destinations, shore camping options were somewhat-to-quite limited. That said, the trip was nicely organized at every stop so that everyone who didn’t have sleep aboard capability was able to find a place to bed down for the night, and every boat was able to raft up with others if needed.

Day 3: Longbranch to Gig Harbor was 16 miles and included the intimidating and potentially dangerous stretch of Narrows. We left very early, as most did, not knowing what we would encounter. The sunrise and sky to follow our departure were spectacularly beautiful. Renge’ was in bliss attempting to capture the loveliness with her smart phone. A bit more wind greeted us which helped those without an iron wind to get under the Tacoma Narrows bridge and through the tidal currents. We were both surprised to realize how quickly we came through the Narrows, and without incident. The outgoing tide at the entrance to Gig Harbor was ripping out and was a challenge bravely surmounted by those rowing or paddling their way to the marina. We were starting to feel some stress over refueling by this time, but there is no option in the marina area. I hiked up to nearest fuel spot, 1/2 mile up a gradual hill, while Renge’ and Hazel explored the town and picked fresh ripe blackberries for our breakfast. There is a hardware store near the gas station which handily sold yardsticks—the perfect temporary replacement for two sail battens that had disappeared during the day. Gig Harbor Boat Works hosted the group with a sumptuous BBQ layout and local brewery beer later that evening. Gig Harbor is a great little town straight out of a movie—we both agreed we could probably live there quite happily. (At least for part of the year!)

Day 4: Our destination was 14 miles away— Blake Island State Park—which can only be reached by boat. The island was one of the high points of the whole week for us. The marina is petite, but well organized with reasonable dock fees. We lucked out with a space on the dock to tie up and then two smaller Salish 100 boats rafted up onto ours. The island is lush and green with hiking trails throughout and spectacular views. There are several beautiful rocky beaches, one of which was quite near the marina and included camping spots for all those not sleeping aboard.

It was a tight squeeze to fit all comers into the marina, and those few that elected to anchor off shore were treated to a real carnival ride for several hours while the winds picked up to 35-knots plus. It was surprising that no anchors drug. We were on the most exposed dock space in the marina and although it was pretty wild for a while with wind heading into the marina entrance, it was nothing like the ride for the brave souls anchored out. We closed up our hatch door for the first time against the cold wind and hunkered down with a simple burrito dinner.

Day 5: It was 16 miles from the state park to Kingston, which started out with a promise of decent wind, but didn’t hold. We tolerated the drone of the Suzuki for most of the way to the day’s destination, enjoying views of Seattle and the Space Needle for several hours as we slowly motor-sailed into a headwind. This day had the most fetch so far. When the wind piped up some wave action also kicked up, making it a bit challenging for the row-only crews. A sharp eye out was needed for the heavy ferry traffic headed to and from Seattle. The Kingston marina is a popular access point for ferry traffic and had a bit of a bustling feel to it. There’s a large green space, a marina store, and nice bathrooms/showers. In the Salish 100 cruise itinerary it mentioned that “Kingston has everything you’d need” which happily included a grocery store a half mile away. Renge’, Hazel and I headed up the hill to pick up some extra beverages and lucked into finding a next door bakery offering some promising treats. In the afternoon our group was greeted with a large tent pavilion and food options, including a British food cart. It was a nice setup for those of us interested in shade, tantalizing food and a social scene.

The following morning we headed to a crepe shop nearby for breakfast and joined some Salish 100 folks for coffee and an amazing smoked salmon crepe. This place is a “must-visit” if you’re in the area!

Day 6: A 15-mile run (again it was mostly motor or arm power) to Port Ludlow. The grey sky’s reflection on the glassy water made for some stunning sights. We learned later that others saw dolphins and whales, which we got to enjoy via video. The wind picked up slightly once we hit Foulweather Bluff and turned west into Hood Canal. Per cruise instructions, we went north around Colvos Rocks to avoid possibly running aground during low tide, but did not hear of anyone grounding who headed directly  to the entrance to the marina. Port Ludlow does not have a town centered around the marina, but does have a resort with a lovely restaurant. Renge’ and I joined a friend for lunch on the verandah with a great view of the large marina and bay. The Northwest Maritime Center put on a final BBQ for everyone—the last planned get-together for the group before finishing in Port Townsend. A few days later, Port Ludlow Marina hosted the first PNW Small Boat Festival, which attracted 75 boats in the water and on land, including a few of the Salish 100 fleet, who returned to exhibit their vessels. We drove down for the afternoon to enjoy a wide variety of small crafts, including many SCAMPS.

Day 7: The final leg of the cruise was 15 miles north to Port Townsend. We passed the entrance to snug Mats Mats Bay, a hidden gem. Several years ago I spent a night there in my SCAMP, anchored out while on the Cruise-a-Palooza with other small-boat sailors.

The wind on the last day showed up for some wonderful sailing on Port Townsend Bay once through the canal on the west side of Indian Island. The paper mill is a stinky landmark that let us know Port Townsend was just around the bend. It was a triumphant feeling as we motor sailed to Point Hudson Marina at the north end of town. Once again we didn’t dally out of concern for securing a convenient slip, and there was plenty of room along our groups’ allotted docks. Thinking, and planning, ahead to reserve slip spaces in marinas when possible is a great idea for future Salish 100 trips. The marina is a beautiful one, surrounded by Port Townsend town to the south, a campground to the west/north and several restaurants immediately to the north. A rocky beach wraps around the point, and Renge’ and Hazel had a dip and beach playtime while I did some boat errands at West Marine and a sail shop.

My original plan was to sail back to Swantown, retracing our route south, but after evaluating our level of energy we decided it was best to finish our trip in Port Townsend. We caught a ride with new friends Bob and Heidi back to Swantown to pick up our van and trailer and then returned to Port Townsend to haul out. We ended up spending two days and nights at Point Hudson marina, giving us some time to relax and play in our favorite Pacific Northwest town. Reluctantly, we eventually motored over to nearby Boat Haven marina to return our Serpentaire 6.50 sailboat to the trailer and headed south for home. Our reentry was a bit shocking as we passed over the Cascade Mountains into smoky and hot Central Oregon, after the lush freshness of Puget Sound and our peaceful week-long immersion in sea and sky.

Take Aways:

Few downsides: The challenge of our large group arriving en masse to marinas created a sense of pressure for some of us, a “need to rush” so we didn’t miss out on a slip that met our needs. Having our first-time-sailing pup Hazel with us meant we really didn’t want to have to raft up and carry her across multiple boats to access the dock at potty times or to anchor out, so we didn’t dawdle most mornings. I believe many of us missed out on some good sailing in the afternoons (when the wind typically picked up), due to a sense that space was limited and we needed to “get there early”. In the future we will make more of an attempt to pre-book slips if possible.

And many upsides: We loved the new adventures—winds, sights, currents, company, and marinas changing every afternoon. There were virtually no bugs, which was a huge delight and surprise. Most of the marinas had restaurants nearby and we enjoyed some delicious meals and walks in the area. Renge’ and I both felt really good about how dialed in the cockpit and cabin of the boat were. (As they say—happy Wife, happy Life!) We slept very comfortably in the twin berths, with Hazel in her bed by my head, and had enough warm dry space inside to cook and hang out, a real plus in case of rain or high winds. An ice block we purchased at Swantown lasted for 5 days (we supplemented it along the way, not realizing how well it would hold up). We highly recommend purchasing a block over chipped ice! People were friendly and knowledgeable and we really enjoyed the group. We had a good time being in the company of so many competent and generous small craft mariners and will do our best to return again next year. Maybe then we’ll wear enough sunscreen to get the return trip south under our belt. Many many thanks to the hardworking team at the Northwest Maritime for planning and hosting this very special event! •SCA•